De Baca Steakhouse owner says restaurant is for regular visits, not just special occasions

COLLEGE STATION, Texas (KBTX) - This segment on The Three was paid for and sponsored by De Baca Steakhouse.

De Baca Steakhouse in South College Station is building its menu around game meats, owner Jim Baca said. Baca said the restaurant is meant for regular visits and not only special occasions.

“Game really sticks out above everything else every day,” Baca said.

Everyday dining

“We try to be very universal so that it doesn’t have to be a special occasion place,” Baca said.

Baca said the menu includes items meant to make the restaurant suited for more than special occasions. He said the restaurant offers burgers on some weeknights.

Students or faculty from any school get a discount with an ID, Baca said.

Baca said the restaurant is one of the only places in town with a Monday through Friday happy hour.

“I think we have the most beautiful bar in town with the best view in town,” Baca said.

Game on the menu

Baca said the restaurant currently offers kangaroo, ostrich, buffalo or bison, quail, duck and pheasant.

“We try and mix it up seasonally,” Baca said. “We’ll always mix it up and keep it interesting.”

He said the restaurant has new samples coming in.

“What sets us apart is all the game meat that we do, the pheasant, the quail, the ostrich, the kangaroo,” Swetnam said.

Swetnam said he plans to keep adding game options while keeping beef steaks and large lobster tails on the menu.

Swetnam said he is proud to be compared to restaurants such as the Republic, Porter’s and Christopher’s.

“We are one of those restaurants that supports our community,” Swetnam said.

Skillet sear

“We made it a point to not do anything the same way as anyone else in town,” Baca said.

Baca said the restaurant does not have a grill in its kitchen.

“We fabricated a cast iron skillet and we actually hard sear all of our steaks, let them rest and then finish them in the oven,” Baca said. “It also takes a little bit more time to do it the right way.”

Ostrich, tartare, lobster and tomahawk

“It eats like a steak because it’s ostrich,” Swetnam said. He said ostrich can be cooked mid-rare, rare or raw. He said it does not carry the same salmonella concerns as chicken because it is a large game bird that is not packed together when raised. He said duck can also be served mid-rare for the same reason. Swetnam said ostrich becomes tougher and chewier when cooked above medium.

“I just love this stuff, mid-rare to medium. It’s absolutely amazing,” Swetnam said.

He said the ostrich and kangaroo on the menu are high in protein and low in fat, and that 3 ounces to 4 ounces of ostrich has about 28 grams of protein.

The beef tartare is made with filet mignon from Rosenthal meat, Swetnam said. It includes Tabasco, cognac, capers, red onion, salt, pepper and house-made pickled mustard seed, with a Dijon drizzle at the bottom of the dish. It is served with a house-made lavash cracker seasoned with black sesame seeds, salt, garlic and granulated onion.

Swetnam said the restaurant serves Western Australian lobster tails. He said they are more succulent and a little sweeter than Maine lobster tails. He said the Western Australian tails “just hit different.” The lobster tail comes with house mashed potatoes made with chive, butter, salt, pepper, garlic and onion powder.

Swetnam said the tomahawk steak can feed three or four people. The steak he served was cooked mid-rare. He said every steak comes with fresh roasted garlic. He topped the tomahawk with compound butter made with truffles and roasted red pepper fondue, then added flaky salt.

Asked how long it took to perfect the steak and butter, Swetnam said, “All my life.”

Menu changes

Baca said the restaurant changes its menu seasonally. He said every four months the kitchen removes a couple of items that do not work as well and adds new flavors. He said the menu has a lot of appetizers because customers react strongly when one is removed, and the restaurant is trying to be more balanced.

“Never stay stagnant,” Swetnam said. “I truly believe that it keeps you on your feet.”

He said the town “deserves the respect of well thought out food.” He said he came to College Station about two to three years ago with Baca to open a restaurant and that Baca trusted him to put together the menu and build the kitchen.

Baca said the restaurant has been in College Station for a year and a half.

“We love being in College Station,” Baca said.